Make sure the plant has fully developed its root ball. If the roots are still insufficient, it’s best to leave the plant to continue establishing itself in the current soil. Choose a new pot for repotting that is about two fingers wider than the previous one. For example, if you're repotting from a 6.8 oz cup, use a 1-quart pot, and continue increasing the pot size gradually as the plant grows.
Avoid transferring the plant into a much larger pot right away, as the roots won’t be able to absorb the excess soil, which could lead to root rot, and you may lose the plant. Always use fresh soil—smell it before planting; it should have a fresh, earthy scent. Plants grow well only in fresh soil. If the soil has a sour or unpleasant smell, it's not suitable. In such soil, the roots will "tighten up" and won't spread properly.

Pelargoniums (geraniums) love plenty of light. South or west-facing windows are ideal for them.

Water pelargoniums (geraniums) only after the soil has dried out. Allow the roots to breathe, then water thoroughly with warm water mixed with fertilizer. Use just 1 teaspoon of fertilizer per 2.6 gallons of water. Overwatering can lead to fungal diseases.

Pinching in the early stages yields good results; you can achieve the desired shape with minimal intervention. Keep in mind that pinching delays the flowering of pelargoniums because nutrients, instead of concentrating on a single growth point, are distributed to multiple side shoots, leading to the formation of new branches. Therefore, pinching is also used to regulate flowering times. Stop pinching once the plant has reached the desired shape or bushiness.
To give geraniums a lush appearance, use both pruning of branches and pinching of leaf buds. Pruning should be done with a clean blade.

1. Prune the stems above leaf nodes with buds that are growing outward from the plant. This stimulates the development of external branches and prevents them from growing inward, which can reduce air circulation and light penetration, increasing the risk of fungal diseases.

2. Prune directly above a leaf node with a bud.

3. Remove any crossing branches, especially those growing inward. These can interfere with each other’s growth and negatively impact the plant’s appearance (see point 1).

4. Cut away dead or diseased parts of the plant. For infected branches, prune at least 2 inches (5 cm) away from the affected area into healthy, green stem.

5. Pinch young branches growing from the base of the stem. This prevents the plant from expending energy on these side branches.

6. Once young branches have developed 3-4 leaf nodes, pinch them back. New branches will develop from the leaf axils, and flower stalks will form in 8-12 weeks. This helps estimate the flowering time after the last pinching.

7. After pruning, fertilize the plant to encourage new branch growth.

8. When the plant has many new branches, remove some, especially those growing inward toward the center of the plant. This helps finalize the bush’s shape.

It is recommended to break the pruning into stages. Divide all the branches into about three parts. First, trim the branches in the green-brown zone between the green and woody parts of the stem. Wait a couple of weeks until new buds start to develop on the trimmed branches. Then, trim the second part of the branches, and once they start to grow, finish pruning the third part of the plant. This staged pruning system is especially recommended for 2-3 year old plants. If you prune the plant all at once, it may experience significant stress and might lack the energy to fully recover. By pruning in stages, you allow the geranium to maintain its strength for the development of new branches.

Cuttings can be taken year-round, but it's best to avoid doing so in December and January when the plant is in a dormant state. Pruning can be done in the fall (November), but it should be minimal. In spring (February-March), you can perform more radical pruning and take cuttings at the same time. Don’t be afraid of heavy pruning in the spring because the longer daylight hours stimulate the plant, causing it to "wake up" and start producing buds and shoots. With sufficient light, the new growth won’t become leggy.
Cuttings taken in February-March have a 100% rooting success rate and tend to be more vigorous than those taken later. Cuttings should be taken just below a leaf node, with all excess lower leaves removed, leaving only two upper leaves. Before cutting each stem, disinfect the blade with alcohol or heat it over a flame. Immediately dip the cut end into rooting powder.
Root the cuttings in fresh soil in a clear container with no drainage holes, watering lightly. Cuttings do not need to be covered and root well under fluorescent lights or in partial shade if natural light is used.